The plants are not difficult to grow provided a few basic rules are followed. In fact most plants can be managed by simply putting them in a bright position on the windowsill and watering during the summer months, just allowing the soil to dry completely for a couple of days before watering again. Give little or no water in winter!

If you need more advice the following text in broken down into sections on the different aspects of their culture. However, the best way to get expert advice is to visit your Cactus Society branch. In fact, why not join it?

In the house, select a bright window (esp. in winter), but not direct strong sunlight.

In a greenhouse they like light shade and plenty of ventilation. I open the door, and vents all summer, covering them with fine mesh too keep slugs and cats out.

Artificial lights can be beneficial and some plants grow very well under them.

They like plenty of air blowing over them, especially in the summer. Use an electric fan in the greenhouse, or take them outside for the summer, but watch for slugs!

In a greenhouse I use thermostatically controlled electric heating, since it is controllable, dry, and runs on Economy 7 relatively cheaply. I also let the fan run even when the heating is off to stir the air. I have a spare paraffin heater for power cuts. Paraffin heaters are good, but they provide a lot of water when they burn, and unless you are careful with the wick, there is a risk of 'blackout', esp. if the greenhouse is well sealed.

Some cacti are alpine and frost hardy, but they need protection from rain in winter and free draining soil; they also enjoy getting sun on winter days to warm them up. Even with these precautions some suffer because our air is so humid; if you have problems, bring them into somewhere warm.

The aim to provide regular water through the growing season, but not to keep the plants perpetually wet. My basic scheme is to water throughout the summer, from about April to September, allowing the soil to dry out for a couple of days between waterings. Obviously pot size and material will affect drying rate as will the position of the plant. At other times do not water. Take care late in the year that plants do not stay too wet! Note that epiphytes, jungle cacti, prefer rainwater.

The amount you water depends strongly on the conditions you are growing in, the temperature, humidity and light levels. It is not possible to be proscriptive about how often to water; it is best to watch the plant and always check it is dry before watering again.

There are some notable exceptions to this simple rule.

I don't like moisture meters that are poked into the soil since they damage roots, and in any case it is to develop a sense for when the plants require water.

During the growing season I use a low N fertiliser, Chempac 8 or Tomorite, at about a quarter to an eighth strength. Jungle cacti like a bit more fertiliser in their growing seasons.

Pots

To ensure the soil dries quickly I pot into the smallest pot possible, within reason.

Plastic pots are my preference since they are light, clean and cheap. It is best to get good quality pots since the plants may be in them for a long time! If you are having trouble with plants rotting, try changing to unglazed terracotta pots, which dry quicker and can be attractive, especially for large outdoor pots. Decorative and Bonsai pots can also be very attractive.

It is worth hanging up epiphytes and some other trailing plants to see them to best advantage.

I use a lot of compost and tend to mix my own, but proprietary cactus composts are very good.

My mix is: one third to one half coarse granite grit (not sand) with the rest either peat (a mixture of Somerset sedge and Irish moss peats) or loam (good quality John Innes No 2).

There is not much to chose between peat and loam from a growing perspective.

The use of coir as a peat replacement is, I think, still in its infancy and doubts have been expressed over how well it retains its structure. I'm not changing yet.

Epiphytes, jungle cacti, don't like lime in the compost and favour a peat base with less grit than my standard mix.

Potting

I like to pot in spring just after the plants have started growing. I use dry soil since repotting will damage roots and any damp may cause rot. If I damage the roots badly, I leave the plant out to heal for a few days before potting. Unless there is some problem with the roots, I 'pot on' into a larger pot without breaking up the rootball. Since I want the soil to dry quickly after watering I chose the smallest pot which will contain the plant: if I have to use a very large pot, I fill some of it with large stones to reduce the amount of soil. Sometimes the plant goes back in the same pot, in which case I remove some soil carefully from the rootball to allow room for fresh soil around the roots.

To deal with a spiny plant you have to find the technique that works best for you, but here are some suggestions.

I apply a top dressing of stones to the pot because it is:

However, it does make it more difficult to see when the plant needs water. Then choice is yours!

Mealy bug

Using a sharp knife take off an offset at the point nears the main body, or cut a stem at the narrowest point. If you are saving a plant from rot, cut back till there are no traces of brown/black in the central vessels. Dip the cut surface in rooting power or flowers of sulphur and allow to dry and callus over. This will take at least 1-2 days, maybe 1-2 weeks or more for very large cuts.

Pot the callused cutting in dry soil and water lightly and regularly, watching for signs of roots or growth.

Most plants require a piece of stem, but some, for instance, Adromischus, root from leaf cuttings.

Seed raising is easier than you think and very rewarding. Some seedlings can flower in three years.

Spring is the best time, but with heat they can be sown at any time of year. Use sterile moist soil, and cover with small gravel. Scatter the seeds on top and spray to wash down. Cover the bag and leave in dappled light and warm (light is important to encourage germination for most cacti and succulents).

Germination should occur within about 3 weeks, often much sooner.

Take out of bag after a couple of weeks, or when see rot, slowly releasing top to acclimatise the seedlings to a dryer environment. Keep the soil moist for some months while seedlings still small and delay pricking out as long as possible to let them get a sturdy root system before disturbance.

Most seeds germinate easily, but some plants have mechanisms to ensure that the seeds only germinate when the conditions are favourable, and some may require scarification. Ask your vendor for more information on treating them.