Sgurr nan Gillean Mtn(965m) O.S. NG 472253

(Peak of the boys) Munros Mountain

Sgurr nan Gillian from near Sligachan

 

 

 

Sgurr nan Gillian is one of the most popular and well know peaks in Skye.   Situated about 5km south of the Sligachan hotel it is the last major summit at the northern end of the Cuillin ridge.  

 

The 3 main ridges of the mountain provide the 3 principle routes of ascent; the South-east ridge - taken by what is known as the tourist route (note: the final 50m is an exposed scramble), the North-north-east ridge - the pinnacle ridge (an exposed and difficult scramble involving an abseil) and the West ridge which connects the mountain to the the rest of the main ridge.


The South-east ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean (The tourist route).

This route, being the easiest way to the summit, is very popular and as such is named the tourist route.  This name is a little misleading in that although the climb is straight forward for almost its entirety, the final 50m provides an exposed scramble high above the lota corrie.  Walkers with scrambling experience should experience no difficulties.  Those with less confidence may find a rope useful to safeguard the final section.

The Summit of Sgurr nan Gillian looking South towards Loch Scavaig

 

From the Sligachan Hotel a path leads South-West towards the mountain and soon crosses the Allt Dearg Mor by a footbridge.  The path continues towards the mountian, boggy in places, to cross the Allt Dearg Beag and then heads South gradually ascending over the broad shoulder of Nead-na-h-Iolaire into Coire Riabhach.  As the path traverses beside great rock slabs of the Eastern flank of the mountain, the towers of the pinnacle ridge may be seen above.  Now the going gets more rocky and the route less obvious but continue round the eastern flank and then up steep scree to join the coll between Sgurr nan Gillean and Sgurr Beag.  The route ahead is now obvious, following cairns along the ridge towards the summit.  This presents no difficulties until the final 50m is reached.  Although technically an easy scramble, a short length of rope may prove useful as the sloping nature of the holds and the airy position combine to unnerve the less confident.  Keeping left at first, follow a polished route up slabby blocks on sloping holds to regain the crest near the summit.  Narrow easy angled slabs of rock lead directly to the summit cairn.


The Pinnacle Ridge (North-North-East ridge) of Sgurr nan Gillean

The Pinnacle ridge of  Sgurr nan Gillian in profile, the summit and west ridge to the right

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The West Ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean

         Looking down the West Ridge Sgurr nan Gillian towards Am Basteir

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

     

 

 

 

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This page is maintained by David Martin  e-mail - decibelfreeuk.com