EDINBURGH CASTLE

At the heart of Scotland's capital city. 

By Richard Easson  

AN EARLY FORT

Perched on top of an extinct volcanic plug 135m above sea level, 100m above the street, it is easy to appreciate why this site was chosen some 3000 years ago as the place to build a stronghold.

There is evidence of human habitation on the summit of the Castle Rock as far back as the Bronze Age (1000 BCE). This early fort was called Din Eidyn, and was occupied by the local Celtic tribe, the Votadini. Din Eidyn first appears in records in about 600 A.D., a three hundred strong war band met with their king, Mynyddog Mwynfawr, at 'the stronghold of Eidyn'. Around 638 A.D. the Northumbrians, led by their King Edwin, invaded the south east of Scotland. It is about this time the anglicised version of the name came into use, but it is incorrect to think of Edinburgh as Edwin's Burgh. The Northumbrians were expelled by Malcolm II at the Battle of Carham in 1018.

A ROYAL CASTLE

King Malcolm III (Canmore) and Queen (later Saint) Margaret are said to have built a hunting lodge here around 1070, his main residence remained safely over the Forth at Dunfermline. Queen Margaret died here on 16th November 1093, upon hearing of the death of her husband in battle at Alnwick. It was probably her son, King David, who built the tiny chapel on the highest point of the rock, which has somehow survived to become Edinburgh's oldest building.

Eighty years later, in 1174 King William the Lion was defeated and captured at Alnwick. He was forced to hand over possession of four Scottish castles as security for his ransom, Edinburgh was one, it was recovered in 1186.

During the Wars of Independence (1296 - 1342) the castle changed hands four times. Robert the Bruce was so impressed with how easily it was taken, he ordered the demolition of all fortifications after he had won it back from the English in 1314. Edward III of England built a new castle in 1335 but held it only until 1341.

The return from English captivity of David II in 1356 heralded the beginning of a period of building, which was to continue for 200 years. The construction of a new royal residence, David's Tower, was begun in 1368, followed by a new gate tower, Constables Tower, in the north-east of the curtain wall, and St.Mary's Church. The Kings Great Chamber followed in 1434, though this required reconstruction following the Siege of 1445.

The 16th century saw the completion of Holyrood House and an end to the castles use as a royal residence, the exception being Queen Mary's confinement for the birth of the future James IV, June 19th 1566, in a small chamber in the Palace.

Six years later the most destructive episode in Edinburgh Castle's history, The Lang siege. In 1571, Keeper of Edinburgh Castle, Sir William Kirkcaldy of Grange, who was still supporting Queen Mary, refused to surrender the castle to the Regent Morton, until in 1573 Morton sought assistance from England. Heavy guns were sent from Berwick and within 10 days had they completely demolished the whole Eastern front. Kirkcaldy was forced to surrender when falling masonry blocked the Forewell, he was then hanged for treason. Reconstruction began immediately, the Portcullis Gate replaced Constable's Tower and the Half Moon Battery was wrapped around the remains of David's Tower.

The castle's royal status was briefly re-established in 1617 during King Jamies Hamecoming, when James IV held court here, though this was purely ceremonial, he slept at Holyrood. King Charles I spent the night in the castle before his Scottish coronation in 1633.

A GARRISON FORTRESS

The castle fell to the Covenanting Army after a three-month siege, in 1640, which resulted in the defences being badly damaged. Repairs followed, and another three month siege in 1650 resulted in Oliver Cromwell establishing his Scottish headquarters here, converting the Great Hall into barracks and carrying other work, including the dry ditch fronting the gatehouse (not completed until 1742) and the removal of many 'royal' symbols. It was Cromwell's creation of a regular army, which led to the royal castle becoming a garrison fortress. The castle saw many changes in the following years with the construction of barracks, officers' quarters, storehouses, etc.

In 1685 Archibald, 9th Earl of Argyle was imprisoned in the upper chamber of the Portcullis Gate, this named Argyles Tower after him, awaiting his execution. Four years later the Duke of Gordon held the castle for James VII+II, against the forces of William and Mary.
Jacobite forces managed to break through the Sallyport (postern gate) in 1715. Following this much of the northern and western defences were reconstructed. Followed by complete reconstruction of the perimeter walls to the south and west and the rebuilding of Argyle Battery in the 1730s.The following decade saw the addition of the Governor's House, now the officers' mess.

In 1745 Prince Charles Edward Stuart made a half hearted attempt at taking the castle, while on his march south. This proved to the last time the castle would see military action. Jacobite prisoners were later held in the vaults beneath Crown Square.

Construction of the Castle Esplanade began in 1753, along with two stores for arms and other equipment facing each other across a courtyard, now known as Hospital Square, allowing for the demolition of St.Mary's Church, which had been in use as a store, and the construction of the North Barracks on the site. About the same time the first prisoners of war are held in the castle vaults. By 1763, 500 Frenchmen were imprisoned here. The completion of the New Barracks, in 1769 allowed for the Great Hall to be converted for use as a military hospital.

A VISITOR ATTRACTION

In 1818 the Honours of Scotland were rediscovered hidden in a locked chest, inside the previously sealed Crown Room, where they had lain since the act of union in 1707. Almost immediately they were put on display, Edinburgh Castle's new function, as a visitor attraction had begun. In 1829 the massive gun Mons Meg was returned from the Tower of London and in 1845 a small store room was identified as the 12th century St.Margaret's Chapel.

Military use continued alongside with the construction of a prison in 1842, a guardhouse in 1853, and reconstruction of the North Barracks in 1863. In 1887 the hospital moved into converted storerooms, allowing the restoration of the Great Hall to begin, St. Margaret's Chapel and the Portcullis Gate were also restored, and the construction of a new Gatehouse and Drawbridge gives the castle much more picturesque appearance.
In 1924 the North Barracks was remodeled by Sir Robert Lorimer, to become the Scottish National War Memorial, conversion of the Queen Anne Building for use as a military museum followed in 1933. Twelve years later the first Military Tattoo was held on the Esplanade.

More recent development includes the conversion of the Cartshed into a restaurant, and the Old Guardhouse to the castle shop, and the return of the Stone of Destiny in 1996.

Today Edinburgh Castle receives over 1 million visitors a year, as well as serving as Headquarters of the Scottish Division, and Regimental Headquarters for The Royal Scots and Royal Scots Dragoon Guards.

All Pictures took by me (richard Easson) in 2003
Richard Easson  ---http://www.easson1917.freeuk.com