Lands End to John O'Groats
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Lands End to John O'Groats |
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A journey in more ways than one |
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This is pretty much as it was written as I went along, the boxes contain extracts from daily emails.
Text in italics are comments after the event.
Sat 29th June: 07:15 - Lincoln Central train station.
So it begins, sitting waiting for the train. Arrived in plenty of time (Dad taught me well). Changed & ready to get on the train. Somewhat nervous, I have to say. Just too tired to do anything about it... I'll be running on auto pilot until midday.
07:30 - Safely on a train to Burton on Trent, left on time & everything. Gorgeous hot day & it's not even 08:00 yet. A sign of things to come I hope.
10:15 - slight problem getting on the train at Burton, but all is now well... Accommodation booked for Tintagel tomorrow night... I now have the best part of a 6 hour train journey... Time for some kip methinks!!!
14:50 - Bored stupid, can't sleep for bloody kids singing & dogs barking... Buffet's shut & I'm gasping for a coffee. Still, only an hour or so to go & I'll be in Penzance... Then a quick 10 miles to the B&B & I can relax.
20:00 - Train ended up half an hour late, no real problem though... Slight drizzle, might just be the wind picking up sea water... Decent SW, hope it's still here in the morning (the wind that is, the rain can bugger off anytime it likes).
Arrived at the B&B just b4 18:00... It's only a couple of miles from Land's End so I popped down & did the sign the book, get the stamp & take the photo thing. (Nice chap also doing E2E with his son took my pic for me)
Walked up to the last fish & chip shop (lots of last this, that & the other round here)... Saw a sign for Gig racing in Sennan cove, reminded me of the holiday in the Scillies with Grandad, nice memories.
Room's basic but comfortable, still, I could sleep anywhere I'm that knackered. Breakfast at 08:30 & I'm away properly.
Email Extract Here's the first of hopefully at least daily updates... Train journey a severe pain in the a**e. Arrived a little late in Penzance... Hotel found ok & have done the nessacerray at Land's End... Am now exactly 1.99 miles into my journey.
Day 1 Lands's End to Tintagel
Distance 94.19 miles Total Distance 94.19 miles Ave speed 12.5 mph Max speed 43.1 mph Cycling time 07:28:39
Sun 30 June : 12:00 - Excellent breakfast & away by 09:00, no problem... A group of fellow nutters staying at the B&B, exchanged pleasantries after breakfast... They left just b4 me... Made me laugh - their support crew said "There goes another one, doing it the hard way, carrying his luggage".. All of a sudden John O'Groats seemed a long way away.
I've made pretty good time, despite getting lost a few times (Landlady of a pub (The Star Inn. I think), yells "If you're going to John O'Groats it's the other way!". I thought she was kidding!!!)... Couple of detours. Probably added 5 or 6 miles.
Now sitting outside The Royal Oak. Just outside Truro, supping Flowers IPA & waiting for my Scampi & chips... This is most definitely the life.
21:00 - Bloody knackered, I recon with all the getting lost (especially around Truro after lunch), I've done an extra 15-20 miles... This is not the idea! I've struggled with some of the climbs, still managed to make reasonable time 'tho which is encouraging.
B&B is excellent, very friendly & the room is spotless... Breakfast booked for 07:30, if I'm going to get lost as much tomorrow as I did today I'm going to appreciate the extra time.
Actually feel pretty good, considering I've ridden further than expected... Bit of a problem with chaffing round the delicate bits that's going to need sorting out sharply... But on the whole a good first day.
Excellent meal in Tintagel... Massive plate of whitebait for starter followed by the biggest mixed grill I've ever seen... Very nice, wish I could remember the name of the place. It was the Crossbow Restaurant.
Email Extract First proper day of the trip; ie I did some cycling... Arrived safely at the B&B in Tintagel (very nice it is too) bang on 18:00, I set off this morning at 09:00 - 9 hrs on the road for those of you that can't add :). The ride was ok, hilly, err, very hilly actually... I'd expected some hills, but not quite this. It was, well, hilly.
Never mind, I coped ok, and got here b4 dark... Now fed (very well), watered (not so well, John Smiths Smooth) & showered... Not necessarily in that order (answers on a post card).
Day 2 Tintagel to South Molton
Distance 58.87 miles Total Distance 153.06 miles Ave speed 12 mph Max speed 44.2 mph Cycling time 04:52:20
Mon 01 July : 17:30 - Arrived at the B&B after a wet and hilly ride... It's a good job this was a shorter day.
Drizzling pretty heavy when I left Tintagel and the rain's been on and off all day... Brighter this afternoon, but still with the odd sharp shower.
Glad to arrive at the B&B, shower and change then popped into South Moulton Post Office to get my card stamped.... Got back to the B&B to find the smoke alarm going off and smoke pouring from the kitchen! It seems the landlady had got everything ready but hadn't realised she'd turned the grill on before going out to fetch hubby from work.
I managed to put the grill pan blaze out & open the kitchen door & windows as they arrived back... This didn't bode well for dinner... As it turns out the meal was excellent.
B&B's very nice, real farm house job... Horses, cows etc... The landlady doubles as a vet! I almost didn't get booked in here, thought I'd got the wrong number when I phoned & was greeted with "Fishers Down Farm Veterinary Surgery"... Glad I did get booked in, it's really nice.
Not been so bad with the Chaffing & soreness problem today... Still got some cream from Boots in South Molton, very soothing, I'm sure tomorrow will be easier in that department.
I'm a little bit worried about Mum's email... Got one returned with a mailbox full error... Hope she's remembering to clear out the junk... Sent another today, not bounced yet, so there's hope.
Longer day tomorrow, still going to be hilly... But possibly not quite as bad (wishful thinking bordering on the foolhardy)
22:45 - Breakfast booked for 07:00, I want a good start... The B&B in Chew Stoke is expecting me around 18:00... According to the map it's a 72 mile day... Don't want to take any chances, day one was supposed to be 77 and it turned into 94... Must try not to get lost tomorrow!
Anyway, creams and potions applied... I'm off to bed
Email Extract Day 2 successfully over. Arrived at B&B in South Moulton about 15:00, after a much shorter day than yesterday... It needed to be too, very hilly day, I've done some walking today. Slight drizzle setting off this morning from Tintagel... It was pretty murky up to lunch time or so, started to brighten up a little bit after that, but with short sharp showers between bright spells I've been pretty much wet all day.
B&B's very nice, a real farm house job... Horses, cows etc. The Landlady doubles as vet! Not sure about her cooking talents, I've just put a fire out in the kitchen while she was away fetching hubby from work! "I'm sure I didn't turn the grill on"... Dinner will now be slightly delayed.
Chew Stoke tomorrow, more hills, super.
Day 3 South Molton to Chew Stoke
Distance 90.06 miles Total Distance 243.12 miles Ave speed 11.9 mph Max speed 45.4 mph Cycling time 07:32:00
Tue 02 July : 22:00 - It's been a hard day today, rain started about half an hour after I left the B&B (08:00), and lasted all morning, until I got to Bridgewater and stopped for lunch about 14:00... By this time I'd done 50 miles or so & they where hard fought miles. Up to the Brendon Hills it was one climb after another, nothing huge or really steep, just one after another all the way... Very Draining.
Taking the wrong turning in Winsford & pedalling back up Winsford hill, into the wind just about took the biscuit as far as hills went.
It eased off after that, spinning along the top of the Breadon hills until Bridgewater... At which point I realised my lock was no longer with me.
The lock had fallen off just after leaving the B&B in South Molton. The Landlady, bless her, found it & came chasing me in the car... I slotted it back into it's holder & thought nothing of it.... So, it could have been anywhere between there & Bridgewater, a 50 mile stretch... Time for a new one I decided.... 20 mins wasted looking for a Halfords was followed by seeing 2 cycle shops within a min of each other after I'd bought the perishing thing from Halfords... This was most definitely not turning out to be my best day.
While we're on the subject of bike breakages. I managed to knock the lever of the light switch while leaning the bike up against a gate post... No major trauma, just a pain.
Anyway, after Bridgewater it was pretty much easy going until it came to climbing out of Cheddar Gorge, now that has some steep bits! The spectacular views made the hard work worth while... Once at the top it was downhill all the way to Chew Stoke.
Arrived at the B&B 17:40... A long, hard ride, but quite satisfying.... I'm proud of that one.. Leisurely B/Fast booked for 07:45 ('cos that’s the earliest she likes to start).
An absolutely magnificent meal in the Stoke Inn, just up the road... Smoked haddock, new pots & veg, washed down with 2 pints of Courage Best... Very nice.
I'm thinking of altering the route tomorrow & going into Bristol instead of round it, I could do with doing some shopping... It'll cut the mileage down, so I can afford some time in the town... Undecided, I'll sleep on it.
The cream seems to be doing the trick, no more problems in that area today (Chalk another good idea up to Mel)... I am starting to get sore thumbs though, all that gear changing, never would have anticipated that one... Shouldn't be a problem.
Feeling good about the trip, I think I've done well today.
Email done, B&B booked for tomorrow... I'm off to bed.
Email Extract Hard day today, first 50 mile where very hilly, not big, steep goes on forever kind of hills, just lots of the bloody things! Now I'm going up a hill, now I'm going down a hill... Now I'm going up another hill, now I'm going down another hill. Repeat until bored. This kept going until the Breadon hills (if any one mentions Winford hill, by the way, I'll have them shot!) Then it was bimble along the top for a while. a little up & down, but steady going.
Slight climb out of Bridgewater & then plain sailing until it was time to grind out of the Cheddar Gorge... Oh my giddy Aunt, that was a bit tough some very steep bits... It levelled out after a while though & a steady climb to the top... Down hill all the way to Chew Stoke & the B&B from there.
Arrived 17:40 after setting off this morning at 08:00... A long day, and hard work. I'm hoping tomorrow will be a bit easier, just a quick hop round Bristol.
Rained pretty much all morning, cleared up this afternoon, but started again about 16:00 just to make sure I was drenched when I arrived... Got to go through the drying stuff off process, pain.
Off to find some nose bag.
Day 4 Chew Stoke to Fownhope
Distance 67.33 miles Total Distance 310.45 miles Ave speed 11.9 mph Max speed 41.2 mph Cycling time 05:39:16
Wed 03 July : 21:30 - Chucking it down when I left Chew Stoke, decided to cut the route short & head through Bristol... Still ended up doing almost 70 miles.
Weather started to pick up after Bristol, got wet again going over the Severn bridge (That was a bit different), but after that it was out with the sun cream.
Wind against today, slowed me down a bit... Nice rice along the Wye valley though.
B&B's nice... Ate at the Green Man Inn, ok, nothing special... Beer was good though, Hook Norton.
Long day tomorrow, then it's one more ride to Marple.
Email Extract Arrived safely in Fownhope after a mixed day... It chucked it down this morning when I left at 09:00 after a very nice breakfast... Stayed that way till just after Bristol, when it started to brighten up. By the time I got past Chepstow I was breaking out the sun cream... It stayed like that until I got to the B&B at 17:15... just started to rain as I put the bike in the barn... That'll do for me... The only downer on the day was a NW wind... Severe pain... Slowed me down a lot.
Standings after 310 miles: Andy in the lead, closely followed by a long list of reasons to give up. His sore arse in dead last (Bringing up the rear, you might say), but starting to make it's presence felt (literally). Could be a contender in the final stages.
Well over half way to Marple & a rest day with Ann, Ged & Joel... Looking forward to that I might tell you!
Day 5 Fownhope to Market Dreyton
Distance 93.35 miles Total Distance 403.8 miles Ave speed 13.2 mph Max speed 39.2 mph Cycling time 07:02:08
Thur 04 July : 21:45 - Another long day, fairly flat with a NW wind but lighter than yesterday... If it hadn't been for the getting lost around Leominster & Telford, I'd have had a leisurely day by comparison... Detoured to the Iron Bridge for a photo op (unintentionally, possible fate thing happening there) & still arrived at the B&B by 17:30.
Weirdest B&B I've ever been in... It's just someone’s house, nice house for sure, but I almost feel like I'm in the way.
It's been an absolutely cracking day, no rain at all... Walked out the door heading for the Talbot Arms by the canal for some dinner & it pissed it down... Like, I'm going to get you one way or the other... Don't care, I've been wet every day so far, one more just won't make a difference.
Backside is starting to feel the pressure & my knees have made their presence felt today... I'm looking forward to a day off on Saturday...
With the mileages being longer than anticipated I might rethink next week & add a day somewhere... Another job for Saturday I think.
Bike's holding up well, apart from the lock going AWOL & me breaking the light switch, I've only had a minor problem with a screw coming loose in the right shifter & the recurring "bar bag self disengagement at most inconvenient time" system kicking in with more frequent regularity... Temp fix with short bungee cord... Doesn't keep it in place but does keep it attached to the bike instead of me watching it pirouette down the road.
Email Extract Arrived safely in Market Drayton... Good day today, no rain for the first time, pretty flat & although the wind was still NW it was lighter than yesterday, didn't give me too much grief. Map reading on the other hand gave me a load of grief!!! Got lost coming out of Leominster & made a serious mess of a detour to the Iron Bridge & ended up almost going into Telford! Not the plan... Probably added 15 miles to the day... Still made pretty good time... Left Fownhope 09:00. arrived B&B Market Dreyton 17:30.
Should be a relatively easy day tomorrow... Looking forward to a rest day on Sat.
Day 6 Market Dreyton to Marple
Distance 56.09 miles Total Distance 459.89 miles Ave speed 13.3 mph Max speed 28.9 mph Cycling time 04:12:29
Fri 05 July : 18:00 - Arrived safely in Marple about 13:30 after leaving the weird B&B about 09:00... Breakfast was very nice, can't complain about the way I was looked after, just seemed like a strange arrangement... Still, not the most expensive at £20.00.
Very fine drizzle as I left & very dull & overcast... Stayed that way all day, the rain got heavier, then eased off... The process continued all the way... Still raining when I arrived in Marple... Made good time, only stopping once for coffee at a garden centre cafe... So arrived in Marple earlier than expected, Anne not home yet so had lunch in a cafe (Brambles) very nice...By the time I'd had that Anne was home & I headed for Marple Hall drive.
Washing machine pressed into action almost immediately & showered once gear sorted, Anne has lent me some clothes & I feel loads better.
Email Extract Arrived ok in Marple, Anne's falling over herself to make me feel at home :) I feel loads better for a shower. Horrid day for a bike ride, rained all the way & a nasty North wind at times... Didn't enjoy today... Glad to have arrived.
Stopped raining now I've got here of course!
I Must have passed 4 or 5 train stations today, very tempted to get a train home, not sure how I managed to resist actually.
Looking forward to a day off tomorrow.
Day 7 Rest day in Marple
Distance 00.00 miles Total Distance 459.89 miles Ave speed 00.00 mph Max speed 00.00 mph Cycling time 00:00:00
Sat 06 July : 09:00 - Nice curry last night, bit too much whisky, little bit of a hang over, but actually feeling pretty good.
18:45 - Good day doing precious little, hour in Stockport after a quick service on the bike... Didn't need much, bit of wind in the tyres & lubricate chain & derailleurs... Apart from a clean up & tighten up that was about it... I'm really impressed with the bike.
23:00 - Day spent doing pretty much nothing & I'm knackered... Actually looking forward to getting back on the bike tomorrow, scary stuff.
Email Extract Nice not to have to do any cycling today... Feeling pretty good, not too many stiff or sore bits. Quick bike service, wind in tyres & lubricate the chain was about it except for tightening a few nuts & bolts & wipe over... The bike's performing very well.
Lazy day really, popped in to Stockport for hour or so, sorted out the gear (All nicely washed by Anne, bless her), organised a B&B for tomorrow & generally made sure I'm set for the off tomorrow.
Looking forward to getting back to it tomorrow.
Day 8 Marple to Slaidburn
Distance 55.91 miles Total Distance 515.8 miles Ave speed 12.4 mph Max speed 42.3 mph Cycling time 04:29:48
Sun 07 July : 16:00 - Not a bad day, no rain, short trip & very uninspiring scenery coming round Manchester...Improved greatly as I got further North... Got a bit hilly past Clitheroe & up to Slaidburn... Arrived in good time all the same.
B&B's a bit naff - No shower, TV or mobile signal... But it's clean & comfortable, can't really grumble for the price... There is, at least a TV in the lounge downstairs... I'll be able to get the Highlights of the British GP tonight.
Off for a walk to try & get a mobile signal & send my email.
17:30 - Sitting in the Hark to Bounty in Slaidburn with a very nice drop of Old Peculiar... Been for a walk up the hill but still can't get a decent mobile signal... Email will have to wait until the morning... As will booking tomorrow’s bed (shouldn't be a problem on a Monday)
This beer's going down well, I might just have to force another one down... It seems this place does B&B too... I'd recommend staying here on the strength of the good beer alone! Probably end up eating here early, looks like they start serving at 18:00.
Food booked, tab started, on my second pint already... This is the life.
Meal excellent... Walk back a bit disastrous... After walking to a high point I managed to get a signal strong enough to talk to Mel, but wasn't able to do the email... On the way back from the pub I decided that a field full of cows would be a great place to try again!!! It had a certain amount of theory as it was a high spot & had line off sight to a mast a long way off into the distance... The cows, however, didn't seem to accept this as a valid reason for me being there & became somewhat aggressive.
Now finished cleaning up trousers & trainers muddied in the flight to safety... Needless to say, email never got sent.
Email Extract Pretty easy days cycling, quite short & fairly flat until after Clitheroe... Had to put an amount of effort into a couple climbs up to Slaidburn, but still got here for 14:30... Half a day really. Well, day 8 of 16 & broken the 500 mile mark... Safe to say I'm about half way... Feeling ok, minor aches & pains, but nothing serious (yet)... My knees are niggling on occasion, which is a little worrying, just have to hope it doesn't get any worse...
Very impressed with the way the bike's performing... No major problems, touching as much wood as I can find.
Still optimistic, looking forward to getting into Scotland (Never been).
Day 9 Slaidburn to Lazonby
Distance 68.23 miles Total Distance 584.03 miles Ave speed 12.4 mph Max speed 37.3 mph Cycling time 05:28:06
Mon 08 July : 17:30 - Left Slaidburn early (08:00), in the pouring rain, expecting a long ride today... As it turns out it wasn't that bad.
Weather cleared up after a couple of hours... almost started to rain again around midday, but never came to much... Nice lunch in the Cross Keys @ Teaby... Arrived in Lazonby 14:50, considerably earlier than expected.
B&B's nice, still no bloody mobile signal, which is a severe pain... Having to walk to the top of the hill.
Done the post office thing for the stamp & topped up the supplies of breakfast bar... I imagine a few hills tomorrow.
Route sheet sorted, B&B booked for Peebles... We're ready to go... Except I'm knackered, my arse hurts & my knees are starting to play up... I'm getting fed up of this weather, I don't much care for all this getting wet... Didn't sleep well last night (Soggy bed) & having indigestion problems that are hampering my breathing... Probably all this rich food, I'm not used to it... Got to get the calories from somewhere.
Into Scotland tomorrow & a longer day... Maybe that'll give me a boost.
Decent Gammon & chips at the Midland Hotel at the bottom of the hill, beers at bit crap, but you can't have everything.
Email Extract Under estimated the distance today, by about 10 miles... Set off early, made good time & ended up arriving B4 15:00. Not the best day's cycling I've ever had... I got very wet this morning & the terrain is starting to get a bit lumpy (Well, I am in Cumbria after all)... Not feeling too good either, indigestion & gut rot of varying types (All this rich food), tired (Didn't sleep well last night, soggy bed) & both knees playing up... The weather cheered up this afternoon though.
B&B's comfortable, still no flaming mobile signal tho'... this could become a pain.
Scotland tomorrow, that'll be a milestone.
Day 10 Lazonby to Peebles
Distance 90.06 miles Total Distance 674.09 miles Ave speed 12.42 mph Max speed 37.5 mph Cycling time 07:15:12
Tue 09 July : 17:40 - Made good time today, set off at 08:00, arrived before 16:00 & managed 90 miles... Stopped in Langholm for coffee & a toastie at The Corner Cafe, worth a visit, good coffee...
Rain started just after & only eased off in the last hour or so.
Difficult ride, gave thought to giving up (but not too seriously)... My knees are starting to hurt though.
Lots of up & down then up again, nothing too strenuous, but a bit tedious.
B&B's nice - not en suite & wannabee Hitler for a Landlady, but comfortable enough.
Email Extract Left this morning at 08:00 expecting a long ride... Overcast, not warm, but at least dry... Stayed that way for the first 40 miles... Stopped in Langholm for coffee etc. & the rain started not long after I left, a drizzle so fine that you wouldn't know it was raining apart from the fact that you're soaking wet! Cleared up in the last hour or so, the Sun even managed to make an appearance... So I was mostly dry by the time I arrived at the B&B. B&B's nice, not en suite & the landlady's a bit Iron Lady like... But the place is comfortable & she did give me a coffee & home made shortbread as soon as I walked through the door.
Not feeling too bad now I've got here but I did have misgivings this afternoon... It's wet & cold, I'm plodding up the umpteenth hill, knowing full well I'll drop down the other side only to find another one, my knees hurt and I can think of lots of things I'd rather be doing... But then the rain stopped, the Sun had a go at coming out & the hills got a little easier... By the time I'd dried off & realised I'd only another 10 miles or so to go, I started feeling loads better.
Day 11 Peebles to Blairegowrie
Distance 92.13 miles Total Distance 766.22 miles Ave speed 13.4 mph Max speed 39.5 mph Cycling time 06:50:52
Wed 10 July : 19:00 - Mild & dry when I set off this morning... Carl at the B&B couldn't be more helpful, real nice guy.
Easy going through Edinburgh & over the Forth Bridge, slight route change to go through Perth rather than round it as it started to rain & I fancied cutting the day as short as possible.
Turned out to be glorious weather for the last couple of hours anyway.
Forth Bridge was enjoyable, if a bit scary (the height thing)... Worth the experience though.
All going ok so far, no major problems... Into the mountains tomorrow, that should slow me down a bit.
B&B's nice, porridge booked for breakfast.
21:00 - Ate at the Blair coffee shop... Starter was great (Whitebait), main was only just mediocre (Shepherds pie)... Still it filled a gap.
Getting a bit worried about the mountains tomorrow... Just have to take it as it comes... I've not booked a B&B for tomorrow... If I get to Grantown then great, otherwise I'll see where I am around 18:00 & look for a vacancies sign... I hope it works.
Email Extract Arrived safely in Blairegowrie about 16:45 after setting off this morning at 09:00... Started with fine weather & ended with glorious weather, but got totally drenched in the middle... Ho hum, nothing new there then. Fairly flat day, just the odd lump & bump to keep me changing gear, can't have any feeling coming back into those thumbs, now can we?
Enjoyed the ride over the Forth Bridge, splendid photo op... Bit of a "don't look down" affair for folks like me with a heights problem, but an experience not to be missed.
Aches & pains starting to become more apparent, but only 3 days to go all being well, J O'G on Sat (Please keep all extremities crossed from now until the weekend, thank you.)
Day 12 Blairegowrie to Grantown on Spey
Distance 80.81 miles Total Distance 847.03 miles Ave speed 12.2 mph Max speed 41.7 mph Cycling time 06:35:11
Thur 11 July : 20:30 - The stats don't show it but that was a really hard day... Big hills, lots of climbing.
Started off a very pleasant morning, not too hot, but plenty of sun... A little drizzle on & off mid morning & towards lunch time, but nothing to get concerned about.
I made good time to Braemar & booked a B&B @ Grantown on the strength of the ride so far (30 miles)... Feeling pretty good... By mile 50 I'd done a few hefty climbs, but the weather was holding & I was still feeling pretty good.
Soon stopped feeling anything like good at all... The rain started, chucked it down... The hills got very steep, some seriously challenging climbs & it got very cold, very quick... It stayed that way all the way to Grantown & the B&B.
Now that I've arrived, showered, set everything to dry etc... I feel ok... But at the time it was dreadful, I've never been so pleased to arrive at a B&B!
I'm thanking Adele's porridge & cooked breakfast with potato scones this morning for giving me the energy to cope with that lot today... It really has been a bitch.
Nice fish & chips at Smiffys in Grantown (Haggis for starter) & a nice drop of Stag from the Cairngorm brewery (in a bottle, must look for it in Tesco).
Carbisdale Castle booked for tomorrow night... 2 more days to go.
Email Extract Arrived safely in Grantown on Spey just on 16:30... Set off at 08:45 this morning... They may well have been the hardest hours I've ever spent on the bike... Ok up to 30 odd miles when I got to Braemar, a bit lumpy, more than I've been used to, but ok. Still not bad at mile 50, a tough climb, but dealable with... After Balmoral though, hell, it all went pear shaped!
What had been a nice sunny day with the odd light shower, just to remind me I was still in Scotland, turned into a downpour that had the roads doing fine impressions of rivers within minuets... This lasted for the rest of the afternoon, I got drenched. (Still raining now)
If that wasn't enough, the north face of the Eiger looms menacingly in front of me...
Three very tough climbs later, with equally tough descents (that I couldn't use, 'cos I couldn't see!), I was absolutely knackered... Everything hurt I thought my knees & lungs where going to explode (In fact, I'm still not sure they haven't).
Very Cold, wet & aching on arrival at the B&B (very nice, booked via tourist info)... Showered, changed & gear drying I now feel more human.
I'm reliably informed by my host that that's the worst of the hills... BLOODY WELL BETTER BE, OR I'M OFF HOME NOW!!!
Having said all that, I still managed to make good time & I've only got 2 days left... Should be a doddle from here by comparison. :)
Day 13 Grantown on Spey to Culrain
Distance 105.38 miles Total Distance 952.41 miles Ave speed 13 mph Max speed 35.7 mph Cycling time 08:04:46
Fri 12 July : 20:20 - Long, hard, showery day... 4 drenchings
Bloody knackered, hostel kitchen shut, packet of TUC biscuits for Tea... Glad I'm in a B&B for the weekend.
Email Extract I could have done without getting lost today, probably added 15 miles... An awful lot of messing about that I didn't need. Turned it into a long day... Not too lumpy (or maybe I'm getting used to it!)
Started off at 09:00 this morning with a lovely sunny day, arrived at the hostel 18:10, just in time to miss my 4th drenching... It's been an real pain. I'll get soaked for an hour or so, it'll stop just long enough for everything to dry off & then start all over again.
Early breakfast tomorrow, I want to be away by 08:00.
Nearly there.
Day 14 Culrain to John O'Groats
Distance 114.31 miles Total Distance 1066.72 miles Ave speed 13.3 mph Max speed 34.9 mph Cycling time 08:34:04
Sat 13 July : 20:30 - The phantom chain saw snorer of Carbisdale Castle!!! I doubt I'll forget that night for a while... Very disappointed with the hostel, just like any other & no cooked breakfast.
Long ride today... Went well as far as Bettyhill, I was on about mile 60 & averaging near 15 mph... Then it all went wrong... Front derailleur slipped & started making rattling noises that had me worried until I figured it out & got it sorted (more or less), the wind turned SE & damn near smacked me in the face & it got hilly.
Pretty much levelled out after Thurso, just didn't feel like it because of the wind.
Arrived in John O'Groats at 17:05... Card stamped (what a performance) & photo taken by very kind American lady.
Left Culran quite early this morning (07:40)... There was a chill in the air & it was misty, but the Sun looked like it was almost breaking through... Apart from the wind the weather has been beautiful, threatened rain briefly mid afternoon, but never managed it... Then turned to blazing sunshine... Gave me only my second dry day of the trip... Good way to finish I suppose.
Memorable sight this morning: Culrain is on the west side of the Kyle of Sutherland, unless you're travelling by train you have to head back South to Ardgay & cross Bonar Bridge to get to the Eastern side & the road North... As I'm heading South along the Western shore (wishing I didn't have to), I saw the mist rising from the water & joining the cloud just above... It was as if the sky was taking a morning drink, a magnificent sight.
Mixed feelings now I've done it... I was expecting to feel quite disappointed, no fanfare or red carpet... But the sense of achievement was actually quite overwhelming when the nice lady at the First & Last House gave me my completed card back.
Now I'm at the B&B, Showered, fed & watered, I'm just looking forward to getting home & haveing a few days at a slightly more relaxed pace.
Definitely have to give some thought to PBP next year.
Email Extract Ok, I've done it... I'm here, I've arrived... Card stamped, photo taken & B&B found. Now showered & feeling more human, but starving, so off for something to eat.
More will follow.
Day 15 - Rest day in John O'Groats
Sun 14 July : 18:30 - Sitting in the bar, waiting for tea to arrive... Pretty slow day, wandered round for a while (didn't take long), quick pint in the Groats pub (Hotel shut for refurbishment) & back to the B&B for lunch.
Watched a film in the "Residents Lounge" & tried to get my head down for a couple of hours (failed).
Not looking forward to tomorrow at all... Alarm set for 03:30, need to set off at 04:20 to give me 2 hours to get to Wick (15 miles) for the train at 06:20... Then it's a bloody horrible journey back home.
Email Extract Looking round John O'Groats didn't take long... They want £30.00 for a ferry trip to the Orkneys (it's only 20 mins!) & I didn't fancy sitting in the pub all day as I've got to be in Wick for the train at 06:20 tomorrow. Day 16 - Journey home
Mon 15 July : 05:45 - Arrived at Wick station in plenty of time, another cyclist here before me... Bike safely on the train too... Made good time getting here & the rain has held off until I got on the train (That makes a refreshing change)... Must remember to get off at Inverness.
11:00 - Uneventful journey to Inverness, apart from cyclist number 3 talking his way on to a train that's only supposed to carry 2... Changed trains on time & without hassle... Now heading to Edinburgh for a 2 hour wait to get the train to Newark.
1 change down, 2 to go... I'll be glad when I get home.
17:30 - Nightmare at Edinburgh... No room for bike on 16:00 to Newark... Now on 17:00 (running 17 min late) to Doncaster.
20:50 - Now on 20:33 from Doncaster, after arriving at 20:18... Changed & ready for a final pedal home... This has been one very long day.
Tired, want me bed!!!
Finally arrived home just before 22:00, absolutely knackered...
Email Extract Left the B&B this morning at 04:20 to give me a full 2 hours before the train left... As it turns out I was at the train station in just over an hour, so plenty of time to spare. Changed at Inverness ok & arrived in Edinburgh on time (14:03)... Next train 16:00 to Newark so time for something to eat.
No room for the bike on the Newark train so another hour to wait for the Doncaster train that I could reserve bike space on... That one was 17 mins late, got into Doncaster 20:18... Am now on the Lincoln train, barring derailment I should get home today!
Knackered, want my bed.
Email Extract So it's all over... Arrived safely home Mon night around 22:00 after a very long day on the trains. Spent most of yesterday crashed out doing nothing except sort out gear & washing etc... Sufficiently recovered today to get into town & develop the photos, I'll get them posted on the web soon & let you all know.
Thanks a million for listening, the support I've had has kept me going.
This will be the last email from this address, it's back to the PC, from now on... So please use the normal address for any replies.
Thanks again you've all been wonderful.