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The capital of St Vincent, Kingstown, is often confused with the capital of Jamaica Kingston (note the lack of a 'w' here). Kingstown in the south of the island was for years protected by cannons, which are still here today, but unmanned. Forts Charlotte and Duvernette were the most heavily fortified. Fort Charlotte is to benefit from a restoration programme funded by the EEC and the Caribbean Development Bank (CDB). The National Trust of St Vincent is extremely active in the conservation of its cultural heritage, and welcomes members. The President is Lavinia Gunn of Noah's Arkade in Bay Street. Each of the Grenadine islands had a fort with multiple batteries placed strategically north and south. Fort Hamilton on Bequia is worth visiting.
Do not be surprised if you come across a cannon when you hike through the bush; some of these have rolled down the hills over the years. Some of these cannons were taken away as souvenirs, despite their great weight. This is against the law, and can involve a prison sentence. Kingstown has a series of shaded Georgian arcades and cobblestone streets, which make shopping there a pleasant pastime. The main shopping areas are Bay Street on the front, and Middle Street. A cool nineteenth century alley divides the two streets at the level of Cobblestone Inn, which is a favorite meeting place for most Vincentians and travellers. The hotel has excellent facilities with colonial furnishings in most of the bedrooms. Basil Charles of Mustique fame has taken over the restaurant and meals are generous and well prepared. There is a buffet at lunchtime.
At the northern end of Bay Street you will find the market. There is a very wide selection of tropical fruits and vegetables transported from the outlying villages each day. There is also a charcoal market facing the new fish market. Coconuts are sold from barrows while they are still green with soft delicious jelly. The vendors deftly open these large young nuts with three quick and well-placed blows of the cutlass. The water of these coconuts is both refreshing and excellent for the health. Prices are highly competitive and this is one of the best places in the Caribbean for yachtsmen to take provisions on board.
In 1970 the waterfront was expanded, and a dredging programme was undertaken to provide additional container space and room for two freighters or cruise ships to come alongside. The main dock is at the south end of Kingstown. This is where the ferries come in from the Grenadines. It is also possible to anchor to the right of the dock when taking on provisions. Water is available at the commercial dock, on request at the customs house. For a minimal fee it is possible to fill tanks before leaving for the Grenadines where supplies are rare. This manoeuvre can, however, call for a show of steely nerves. Thirty five per cent of the population are unemployed, and much of the youth converges on the capital and its port. Some of these youths are belligerent, establishing their own laws and rights when officials turn their backs. Be patient, this is not the general rule. Very small boys have home-made wooden carts to carry ice, supermarket goods, and anything you may have bought for a cruise. It is well worthwhile giving them a few dollars to carry your crates and goods, see them smile widely and know you have a friend here. Two excellent supermarkets function directly behind the main jetty. The meat is first class and local. Customs and immigrations offices are located here. An immigration/permit office is situated at the end of Bay Street. There are some very old and interesting traditional buildings on the waterfront of the southern anchorage. The diving is good in this area. Please keep to the rocky shore.
The centre of town has a number of banks, restaurants, bars, the post office and the government administrative buildings on Halifax Street. For philatelists the stamps of St Vincent and the Grenadines are collectors items. There is a philatelic club in town. Kingstown closes its doors to commerce at 4 p.m. and for lunch between 12 and 1 p.m. Opening hours vary between 7 a.m. for essential services, and 9 a.m. for shoppers. Shopping for spare parts is not advised. Bring these with you. A good breakfast is served from eight in the morning at the Green Parrot on Halifax Street, when Cable and Wireless opens up on the other side of the street. Service here is efficient for both telephone and fax. Laundry is dealt with in a happy tropical atmosphere at the Black Cat Laundry at the far end of Long Lane.
There are three churches in Kingstown. The Catholic Cathedral, St Mary's, is an extraordinary structure and Gothic in style. St Mary's was built in 1823 and was renovated in 1940 by Charles Verbeke. A short distance from it is St George's Anglican Cathedral, built in 1820. It is light, airy and Georgian in style. This church has fine stained glass windows. The Methodist church is also attractive and merits a visit; it is only a stone's throw from the other two. Dollar buses operate from the market place and in front of the town's handsome Court House. These colorful public transport vehicles service all the villages on both the leeward and windward coasts. There is a busy service between Kingstown and the tourist centre at Villa, which goes past the airport.
Before leaving town it is very worthwhile to visit the oldest Botanical Garden in the Western Hemisphere. It is here that Captain Bligh planted the first Tahitian breadfruit tree in 1793. A slip from it carries on the tradition in the gardens. The gardens were opened in 1765 on twenty acres of rich and fertile soil on the slopes overlooking the capital. The first botanists to cultivate the gardens, Drs George Young and Alexander Anderson, were responsible for the propagation of numerous imponed flowering shrubs, plants and trees, both decorative and medicinal, throughout the island. The success of the breadfruit trees provided the people with an excellent food source. There are fine royal palms and just about every species of Caribbean fruit, flower, shrub and tree may be studied here. A Doric temple was added to the grounds at the beginning of the century together with paths and shaded benches, where visitors can sit and admire the beauty and enjoy the tranquillity of the place.
Above the gardens is the Botanical Clinic founded by a dedicated general surgeon Dr Cecil Cyrus. Dr Cyrus is also responsible for the Ophthalmologic Centre where over the years he has solved many critical problems. The clinics look over the town and Kingstown harbour. Another of the island's remarkable men also works in this area.
Within the Botanical Gardens is the Archaeological Museum founded by Dr Earl Kirby. Dr Kirby received the Caribbean Conservation Association Award for Outstanding Services to the region in 1991. Not only is he a historian, archaeologist and author, he is also a So veterinary surgeon and has worked in the fields, villages, mountains and towns of the State, aware of every aspect of its fauna and flora. His museum is a charming gingerbread house on the left of the entrance. Open on Wednesday from 9.45 a.m. to 11.45 a.m. and Saturday from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m., the exhibition traces the lives of the prehistoric settlers of the island, displaying magnificent artefacts, stone and shell tools.
It is worth stopping at the Craftsmen Centre on the way out of town for Villa and the tourist section of St Vincent. There is an excellent selection of handicrafts here, including wood carvings, sisal mats and rugs, which may be made to order, and a variety of bamboo ware, straw hats and worked coconuts. The Government encourages foreign investment in both tourism and industry. The recent Hotel Aid Act drawn up by the Prime Minister seeks to encourage economic growth in this field. Serious investors may contact The Development Corporation at P.O. Box 841, St Vincent and the Grenadines, WI. Finally, for those wishing to start married life in paradise, aliens and tourists may obtain a Special Governor General Licence for a small fee from the Ministry of Information and Culture, after a three-day residence in the State, and an Ordinary Licence from the Registrant Notice of the ceremony has to be published in the registry for a minimum of seven days. The choice of honeymoon hideaways will prove overwhelming.
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